Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Giornale #1 - Santa Maria Sopra Minerva

Our trip to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva seemed to me to be a classic exploration of Rome
as a city, happening upon a mix of modern history alongside ancient building casually
along the way. We began wandering from the Porticus of Octavia towards the church,
making a pit stop in the Harry Potter store because we couldn’t refrain, and continuing
onwards towards the church.


A few blocks after that, we passed the Fontana delle Tartarughe, or the Turtle Fountain,
which I later learned was built in the Italian renaissance, around 1580-1588, by the
architect Giacomo della Porta and the sculptor Taddeo Landini, with the bronze turtles
added by either Gian Lorenzo Bernini or Andrea Sacchi around 1658 during restorations
of the fountain. Some historians believe that the turtles are representative of the myth of
Jupiter and Ganymede, as the turtle became a symbol of Jupiter, and the upraised arms
towards the turtle could represent Ganymede being abducted by Jupiter as an eagle, as
that pose is often how he is portrayed in classical art. The fountain really caught my eye,
as it was so artfully created, but so hidden away in a tiny square, and if we hadn’t
accidentally happened upon it, I would’ve never known it existed.


Our next stop, in the Largo di Argentina, was the cat sanctuary. Though they were only
open for another 20 minutes, they allowed us to come in and meet some of the cats. I
learned that not only are they a sanctuary, but an adoption agency as well. Hosting
about 130 cats at the moment, the cats are spayed and neutered, and free to roam
around the ruins and the center itself, and nearly all of them are available for adoption.
Some of the cats, as they are either very old, blind, or have other medical problems,
are not up for adoption, but remain under the care of the facility. I met a cat named
Disturbia who was asleep by the register as Maisie paid for a tote bag, and as I pet
her for the first time I began to miss home a little bit, missing my animals back in
New York. But that homesickness would soon be cured by the beauty of Rome, as
we progressed from the shelter to the church.


Once inside, I had to double check the requirements for this assignment. The church
of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva was definitely not what I expected under the category
of “small church” compared to the small churches of the United States- at home, I’m
sure this would be classified as a massive basilica. Between the many statues,
magnificent portraits of holy figures, and the breathtaking stained glass windows,
I was speechless.

The art on the ceiling caught my eye for quite a while as I stared into the heavenly
portraits of saints in the sky, surrounded by a midnight blue with golden stars. I sat
down on a pew and stared at the ceiling for a while, taking it in. For some reason-
perhaps the stars- it reminded me of the ceiling at Grand Central Station in Manhattan
with its constellations and stars. I think for this reason it confused me, as I had seen it
as a more pagan depiction of the sky, as I saw it closer with astrology than the typical
Catholic portrayal of heaven. Perhaps it was the deeper blue that caught me, as many
of the paintings around the sides of the church and the others that I’ve seen often
represent a heavenly glow unlike the night sky, with baby blues and golden lights shining
down on believers, but the darkness brought me to the night sky, watching the saints float
through like constellations.

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